Introduction: Varenna, a lakeside escape — and the secret beach to discover
On the eastern shore of Lake Como (Lago di Como), Varenna is often hailed as the most romantic of the small lakeside towns in Italy: cobbled lanes, colorful houses, flower-filled balconies and postcard-perfect views. Yet beyond the picture-postcard scenes and the high-season crowds, there’s a tucked-away spot where you can swim away from the masses: Varenna’s “secret beach,” known to locals and savvy travelers. This guide walks you step by step to the spot, gives practical info to reach it, describes facilities and safety, and suggests ways to extend your day with visits to highlights like Villa Monastero and Castello di Vezio.
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The secret beach isn’t an official facility with sunbeds and lifeguards: it’s a rocky, partly pebbled cove sheltered from prevailing winds, with clear, often warmer water than the exposed headlands. The charm of the place is its wild, intimate vibe — perfect for an early-morning swim, sunbathing with a book, or a picnic to the sound of lapping water. Access is usually on foot via steep paths or a short descent from a little-used parking area: the effort is modest, but the payoff is big.
In the sections below I give exact names and addresses (train station, pier, monuments), typical opening times, usual prices (ferry fares, villa and castle entry), plus practical tips for swimming (recommended gear, safety, how to respect the site). You’ll also find tricks to avoid peak times, choose the best season, and combine your swim with a cultural visit, lunch at a trattoria, or a walk to Perledo. Note that times and prices change by season: it’s always wise to double-check official sources before you go. To help you picture each step, I’ve slipped in several image markers useful for planning your travel notes.
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1) How to find the secret beach: route, landmarks and exact access
The secret beach sits off the main lakeside front of Varenna, in the small bay between the little ferry pier and the promontory topped by Castello di Vezio. Recommended starting point: Stazione Varenna-Esino-Perledo (Address: Piazza Martiri, 23829 Varenna LC, Italy). From the station, head toward the lake along Via XX Settembre, then descend to the lungolago (waterfront). From Piazza San Giorgio, where the main landing stage (Imbarcadero Varenna, Piazza San Giorgio 6, 23829 Varenna LC) is located, walk northeast along the promenade following signs for “Castello di Vezio” and the “Sentiero del Viandante” for about 8–12 minutes until you spot the less obvious trailhead, often marked by a local sign saying “sentiero per la spiaggia” or a small stone staircase.
The path winds down in switchbacks, sometimes over old stone steps. Midway you’ll see a stone house with a blue gate and a small handmade sign — that’s the last reliable landmark before the final descent to the cove. Warning: this last section is steep and can be slippery after rain — good shoes and a dry bag for your belongings are recommended. Walking time from the lungolago is about 10–20 minutes depending on your pace. If you arrive by ferry (Navigazione Laghi, ferry terminal Piazza San Giorgio), allow an extra 5–15 minutes to reach the trail from the landing.
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Practical coordinates: Stazione Varenna-Esino-Perledo (Piazza Martiri, 23829 Varenna LC), Imbarcadero Varenna (Piazza San Giorgio 6, 23829 Varenna LC). Typical prices: Navigazione Laghi ferry single ticket to Varenna: approx. €4–€8 depending on route and season. Important tip: do not enter private property — respect signs and local owners. In high season (June–August) set off early (before 10:00) or late afternoon (after 16:00) to enjoy peace and quiet.
2) Swimming, safety and gear: swim with peace of mind in lake water
Swimming at Varenna’s secret beach is a natural experience: clear water, often a mixed gravel/rock bottom, and few weeds when the wind is calm. However, there’s no lifeguard station — swimming is at your own risk. Strong recommendations:
- Never swim alone: go with at least one other person, and tell someone your route and expected return time.
- Use a safety buoy if you’re an intermediate swimmer: inflatable safety buoys or swim buoys are compact and very useful.
- Water shoes: the bottom has slippery rocks and sometimes shells; water shoes (€10–€30 depending on model) will prevent cuts and slips.
- Check the weather and wind: Lake Como can change quickly; if the wind picks up, the water gets choppy and currents near headlands can be hazardous.
For hygiene and comfort, bring a small dry bag to protect phones and papers (€8–€20), a microfiber towel (compact and quick-drying), and a soft cooler to keep drinks cold. The nearest public toilets are usually on the lungolago near Piazza San Giorgio (toilets Piazza San Giorgio, Varenna) but they aren’t always open at night; check with cafes and restaurants around the harbor to see if they’ll let you use their facilities (purchase required). Finally, keep the place clean: take your trash with you, avoid open fires, and don’t pick plants.
3) Detailed routes from the station, pier and parking: practical options
Access from Stazione Varenna-Esino-Perledo: leave the station (Piazza Martiri, 23829 Varenna LC) and walk down Via XX Settembre toward the lake (5–8 minutes). Follow signs to the lungolago and Piazza San Giorgio. From the piazza, head right (northeast) along the lakeside; after about 200 meters you’ll see the trail entrance to the secret beach. Total time: 10–20 minutes on foot. If you have luggage, consider local taxi services (Taxi Varenna +39 0341 830xxx) or private water taxis from the port (prices vary, approx. €30–€80 depending on distance).
From the landing stage (Imbarcadero Varenna, Piazza San Giorgio 6): step off the quay and cross the promenade toward the ascent to Castello di Vezio. The indicated path can be discreet; look for a rusted wooden sign or ask a local fisherman. If you arrive by car, recommended parking areas are:
- Parcheggio Comunale Varenna (Parcheggio Comunale, Via IV Novembre 1, 23829 Varenna LC) — indicative rate: €1.50/hour or €10–€12/day depending on season. Hours: open 24h (check local signs).
- Parcheggio Stazione Varenna (near Stazione Varenna-Esino-Perledo) — ideal for those combining train and hike. Fee: often free for short stays, paid in high season.
Tip: in summer aim to arrive before 10:30 or after 16:00 to avoid hunting for a space. If you come by ferry from Bellagio or Menaggio, keep your return ticket: regular links are run by Navigazione Laghi di Como (office address: Lungolario Europa, 22100 Como CO); a Varenna–Bellagio ticket costs about €4–€6 in low season and €6–€10 in high season. Always check Navigazione Laghi’s official timetables before you go.
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4) What to see nearby: Villa Monastero, Castello di Vezio, restaurants and extra visits
The secret beach sits close to two of Varenna’s most iconic attractions, perfect complements to your day:
- Villa Monastero — Address: Via Polvani 4, 23829 Varenna LC, Italy. Usual opening times (seasonal): April–October 9:00–19:00, November–March limited visits (check official site). Garden + museum ticket: approx. €8–€12 per adult; a guided villa tour can cost up to €15. The villa offers terraced botanical gardens overlooking the lake — ideal for a post-swim stroll.
- Castello di Vezio — Address: Via Castello, 23829 Varenna LC, Italy. Hours: generally 10:00–18:00 (summer season), closed some winter mornings; entry fee: approx. €5–€7. The path up to the castle provides panoramic lake views and, from the ramparts, you can watch birds of prey during the falconry demonstrations held several days a week.
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Recommended restaurants and cafés:
- Ristorante Il Caminetto — Address: Via XX Settembre 30, 23829 Varenna LC. Specialties: lake fish, risottos. Price guide: mains €12–€28. Hours: 12:00–14:30 / 19:00–22:30 (book in high season).
- Trattoria La Costa — Address: Via San Giorgio 10, 23829 Varenna LC. Small family-run trattoria, daily menu €15–€25. Hours: 12:00–14:30 / 18:30–22:00.
Local tips: after swimming, rinse off with fresh water as soon as you can (some places near the harbor offer pay showers: approx. €2–€4). Grab a gelato at Gelateria la Vecchia Scuola (Via XX Settembre 18) for a sweet break before climbing to the castle. If you want to stay longer, the walk along the Sentiero del Viandante towards Perledo has superb views and shaded stretches — perfect for a digesting stroll after a meal.
Conclusion: why this secret beach is worth it and how to plan your day
Varenna’s secret beach packs intimacy and authenticity into one spot: it captures what many travelers seek on Lake Como — quiet, clear water and memorable scenery — while keeping the town’s cultural and culinary comforts close at hand. Good preparation is key to making the most of it: go early, bring the right gear (water shoes, safety buoy, dry bag), respect the environment and avoid bringing unnecessary valuables. The few minutes of effort to reach the cove are more than rewarded by the feeling of having discovered a private corner of the lake, away from the crowded public beaches.
Combine your swim with a visit to Villa Monastero (Via Polvani 4) for a botanical walk, and a climb to Castello di Vezio (Via Castello) for breathtaking views — both sites pair perfectly with the day and provide reliable waypoints for your itinerary. Don’t forget to double-check opening times and prices in advance: Villa Monastero and Castello di Vezio have variable seasons, and Navigazione Laghi adjusts services according to seasonal demand.
Finally, remember that the “secret beach” should stay secret in the spirit of respect: practice responsible tourism by leaving the spot as clean as you found it and honoring the peace of local residents. Whether you come for a dawn swim, a lazy afternoon in the sun, or a romantic sunset, this discreet corner of Varenna will give you a precious, memorable moment on the shores of Lake Como.
