Introduction: Varenna, the lakeside escape — and the secret beach to discover
Nestled on the eastern shore of Lake Como (Lago di Como), Varenna is often hailed as the most romantic of the small Italian lakeside towns: cobbled lanes, colorful houses, flowered balconies and postcard-perfect views. Yet beyond the postcards and the high-season crowds, there’s a tucked-away spot where you can swim away from the masses: Varenna’s “secret beach,” known to locals and informed travelers. This article guides you step by step to the spot, gives practical access details, outlines facilities and safety, and suggests ways to extend your day around landmarks like Villa Monastero and Castello di Vezio.
The secret beach isn’t a formal facility with sunbeds and lifeguards: it’s a rocky, partly pebble cove sheltered from prevailing winds, with clear, pure water often warmer than on exposed promontories. Its appeal lies in the wild, intimate atmosphere — perfect for dawn swims, sunlit reading or a picnic to the sound of gentle waves. You usually reach it on foot via steep trails or a short descent from a little-used parking area: the effort is modest, but the reward is big.
In the following paragraphs I give precise names and addresses (station, pier, landmarks), indicative times, typical prices (ferry tickets, villa and castle visits), and practical swimming tips (recommended gear, safety, respecting the site). You’ll also find tips to avoid peak times, choose the best season and combine your swim with a cultural visit, lunch at a trattoria or a walk to Perledo. Note that schedules and prices may change with the season: it’s wise to check official info before you go. Finally, to help you visualize each step, I insert several image markers useful for your travel notes.
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1) How to find the secret beach: route, landmarks and exact access
The secret beach sits off the main lakefront of Varenna, in the cove between the small boarding port and the promontory crowned by Castello di Vezio. Recommended start: Stazione Varenna-Esino-Perledo (Address: Piazza Martiri, 23829 Varenna LC, Italy). From the station, head toward the lake via Via XX Settembre then descend to the lungolago. From Piazza San Giorgio, where the main pier lies (Imbarcadero Varenna, Piazza San Giorgio 6, 23829 Varenna LC), cross the promenade northeast, follow signs for “Castello di Vezio” and “Sentiero del Viandante” for about 8–12 minutes until a less-visible trail appears, often marked by a local sign reading “sentiero per la spiaggia” or a small stone stairway.
The path winds down with switchbacks, sometimes on old stone steps. Midway, look for a stone house with a blue gate and a small handmade sign; this is the last reliable marker before the final descent to the cove. Caution: the last stretch is steep and can be slippery after rain — good shoes and a dry bag for your belongings are recommended. Walking time from the lungolago is about 10–20 minutes depending on pace. If you arrive by ferry (Navigazione Laghi, ferry terminal Piazza San Giorgio), allow an extra 5–15 minutes to reach the trail from the dock.
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Practical details: Stazione Varenna-Esino-Perledo (Piazza Martiri, 23829 Varenna LC), Imbarcadero Varenna (Piazza San Giorgio 6, 23829 Varenna LC). Indicative prices: Navigazione Laghi ferry to Varenna (single ticket): approx. €4–€8 depending on route and season. Important tip: avoid entering private property — respect signs and local owners. In high season (June–August) go early (before 10am) or late afternoon (after 4pm) to enjoy more tranquility.
2) Swimming, safety and gear: how to swim with peace of mind in the lake
Swimming at Varenna’s secret beach is a natural experience: clear water, often a mixed gravel/rock bottom, and few algae when the wind is calm. However, there’s no lifeguard or rescue station; swimming is at your own risk. Strong recommendations:
- Never swim alone: favor the company of at least one other person, and tell someone your route and return time.
- Use a safety buoy if you’re an average swimmer: inflatable swim buoys or safety buoys are compact and very useful.
- Water shoes: the bottom has slippery rocks and sometimes shells; water shoes (€10–€30 depending on model) will spare you cuts and slips.
- Check the weather and wind: Lake Como can change quickly; if the wind picks up, waters get choppy and currents near points can be hazardous.
For hygiene and comfort, bring a small dry bag to protect phones and documents (€8–€20), a microfiber towel (compact and quick-drying), and a soft cooler to keep drinks cold. Public toilets are usually on the lungolago near Piazza San Giorgio (toilets Piazza San Giorgio, Varenna) but may close in the evening; check nearby cafés and restaurants to see if they allow customers to use facilities (purchase required). Finally, keep the site clean: take your trash, avoid fires, and don’t pick the vegetation.
3) Detailed directions from the train station, the pier and parking: practical options
Access from Stazione Varenna-Esino-Perledo: exiting the station (Piazza Martiri, 23829 Varenna LC), walk down Via XX Settembre toward the lake (5–8 minutes). Follow signs to the lungolago and Piazza San Giorgio. From the piazza, head right (northeast) along the lakeside; after about 200 m you’ll find the trail entrance to the secret beach. Total walk: 10–20 minutes. If you have luggage, consider local taxis (Taxi Varenna +39 0341 830xxx) or private water-taxis from the port (prices vary, approx. €30–€80 depending on distance).
From the landing (Imbarcadero Varenna, Piazza San Giorgio 6): walk down the quay and cross the promenade toward the climb up to Castello di Vezio. The marked path can be discreet; look for the rusted wooden post or ask a local fisherman. If you arrive by car, recommended car parks are:
- Parcheggio Comunale Varenna (Parcheggio Comunale, Via IV Novembre 1, 23829 Varenna LC) — indicative rate: €1.50/hour or €10–€12/day depending on season. Hours: open 24h (check local signs).
- Parcheggio Stazione Varenna (near Stazione Varenna-Esino-Perledo) — ideal for those combining train and hike. Rate: often free for short stays, paid in high season.
Tip: in summer aim to arrive before 10:30 or after 16:00 to avoid hunting for a space. If you come by ferry from Bellagio or Menaggio, keep your return ticket: regular services run by Navigazione Laghi di Como (office address: Lungolario Europa, 22100 Como CO); a Varenna–Bellagio ticket costs about €4–€6 low season and €6–€10 high season. Always check schedules on Navigazione Laghi’s official site before you go.
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4) What to see nearby: Villa Monastero, Castello di Vezio, restaurants and extra visits
The secret beach is close to two of Varenna’s most iconic sights, perfect to round off your day:
- Villa Monastero — Address: Via Polvani 4, 23829 Varenna LC, Italy. Typical opening hours (seasonal): April–October 9:00–19:00, November–March limited visits (check official site). Garden + museum entrance: approx. €8–€12 per adult; guided villa tours up to €15. The villa has long terraced botanical gardens overlooking the lake, ideal for a post-swim stroll.
- Castello di Vezio — Address: Via Castello, 23829 Varenna LC, Italy. Hours: generally 10:00–18:00 (summer), closed some winter mornings; admission: approx. €5–€7. The path to the castle offers panoramic lake views and from the battlements you can watch birds of prey during falconry displays held a few days a week.
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Recommended restaurants and cafés:
- Ristorante Il Caminetto — Address: Via XX Settembre 30, 23829 Varenna LC. Specials: lake fish, risottos. Price range: dishes €12–€28. Hours: 12:00–14:30 / 19:00–22:30 (check reservations in high season).
- Trattoria La Costa — Address: Via San Giorgio 10, 23829 Varenna LC. Small family trattoria, daily menu €15–€25. Hours: 12:00–14:30 / 18:30–22:00.
Local tips: after swimming rinse off with fresh water as soon as possible (some facilities near the port offer paid showers: approx. €2–€4). Grab ice cream at Gelateria la Vecchia Scuola (Via XX Settembre 18) for a sweet break before the climb to the castle. If you want to extend your stay, the walk along the Sentiero del Viandante toward Perledo offers superb views and shaded sections, great for digesting after a meal.
Conclusion: why this secret beach is worth it and how to plan your day
Varenna’s secret beach packs intimacy and authenticity: it sums up what many seek at Lake Como — peace, clear water and memorable scenery — while staying close to the village’s cultural and culinary comforts. To make the most of it, preparation is key: go early, bring the right gear (water shoes, floatie, dry bag), respect the environment and avoid bringing unnecessary valuables. The few minutes of effort to reach the cove are well rewarded by the feeling of discovering your own private lakeside spot, away from crowded public beaches.
Combine your swim with a visit to Villa Monastero (Via Polvani 4) for a botanical stroll and a climb to Castello di Vezio (Via Castello) for stunning views — both sites perfectly complement the day and provide reliable landmarks for planning. Don’t forget to check opening times and prices in advance: Villa Monastero and Castello di Vezio have variable seasons and Navigazione Laghi adjusts services to seasonal demand.
Finally, keep in mind that the “secret beach” should remain so in spirit: practice responsible tourism, leave the place as clean as you found it and respect local tranquility. Whether you come for an early swim, a lazy sunny afternoon or a romantic sunset, this discreet spot in Varenna will give you a precious, memorable moment on the shores of Lake Como.
